I prepared all the stuff for the door frame and planed the grooves to accept the door panel. I also stuck a 1/4″ ovolo along what will be the inner edges of the door frame. The ends of the frame components were mortised and tenoned and the ovolo mouldings were mitred where they intersect.
Moulded door frame components.
I ripped a busy elm board in two and rubbed the halves together to make the door panel. When dry, I tidied up the panel and cut it to shape.
The straight edges of the panel were simply fielded with a plane and the arch fielding was carved.
The door frame’s joints were first drawbored and then I knocked the door together and drove oak pegs through the joints, leaving the panel free-floating in the frame.
The pegs were trimmed and the door given a final tidy up in preparation for hanging on the cupboard.
Are you a hot hide glue guy, or do you use one of the various fish glues, brown glues, etc? Until recently I was strictly a Titebond user, but I’m trying to get into something more traditional. You can’t do rub-joints very well with Titebond and it seems like such an easy and simple way to put boards together. It’s weird that I didn’t know about this until I read your blog.
Yes, I’m a staunch advocate of horse sauce!
Jack, how do you do the ovolo on the inside curve of the top rail? Straight bottomed moulding planes are clearly not up to the job. Even if you use a power router (which I doubt), how would it have been done in the past?
Depending on which part of the curve being worked is with the grain or against the grain, I use a scratch stock or chisels. To finish, I readjust the scratch stock and take a final, very fine pass which ensures a uniform profile.
Tell tale marks on some antiques would point to the same method being employed. I have also seen signs of some form of scratch stock used on a trammel beam.