A George III Mahogany Kneehole Desk – Part Three

The rear panels are free floating in the carcase to accommodate contraction and expansion. To that end, I glued cockbeading around the panel rebates to disguise any future shrinkage.

Final assembly of the carcase was somewhat akin to solving a Chinese wooden puzzle where some elements required sliding partially home to allow another part entry into its housing. With the glue providing lubrication and at the same time, swelling the wood’s fibres, two of the sliding dovetailed components required more than a little gentle persuasion to fully slide home.

I glued the mahogany lipping onto the fronts of the carcase members and planed them all flush.

The bare carcase front.

The carcase back.

Jack Plane

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About Jack Plane

Formerly from the UK, Jack is a retired antiques dealer and self-taught woodworker, now living in Australia.
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5 Responses to A George III Mahogany Kneehole Desk – Part Three

  1. Sean says:

    Hi Jack,
    Looking good! I know exactly what you mean about a bit of force required to persuade parts to go where they are supposed to. Do you add a bit of salt or urea to your hide glue to give you a bit more time when assembling a carcass like this?

    Like

  2. Adam P. says:

    It looks like you’re working with some amazing wood. I noticed a blog post on Roubo and burnishing that I thought you’d be interested in.

    http://blog.lostartpress.com/2012/04/17/roubo-the-broom-salesman-part-2/

    I still have far to go to be even a merely adequate finisher. It’s the weakest part of my woodworking.

    Like

    • Jack Plane says:

      Thank you for the link. I have been burnishing everything since I first started turning as a teenager; holding a handful of shavings against the rotating work piece obviates the need for sandpaper and gives a glow to the surface that provides a superior surface for polishing. I touched on it briefly in Refurbishing an Old Stanley Socket Chisel.

      I have also mentioned burnishing the furniture I make prior to polishing it and at several stages during the finishing process too. I tend to use firm pads for burnishing during the initial stages, only resorting to a stubble brush for the final waxing.

      JP

      Like

  3. Pingback: A George II Virginia Walnut Chest of Drawers – Part Two | Pegs and 'Tails

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